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MANGALORE: Decades ago the month of Aati was considered an inauspicious month marked by famine. With monsoon unleashing its fury rendering farmers jobless, people used to struggle to make their ends meet.
 
The times have changed, so have the ways of life. Now, Aati is that time of the year when people in Tulunadu get to savour traditional Tulu cuisine. Several organizations hold events like ’Aatidonji Koota’ where people get together to remember the good-old days and to relish on a variety of traditional delicacies. Tuluvas dedicate that one whole day to celebrate Tulu culture and food.
 
Women prepare and serve pathrode, aritha pundi, kudutha chutney, kanchalada kajipu, thekkereda adye, neeruppad chutney, pelakayida garrige, pelakayida gatti, nugge ambade, manjal iretha gatti, uritha unde, thetla gasi, moode, guriyappa, mentheda ganji, banaleda adye and uppudu paddina thoutheda chutney at events like Aatidonji koota, Aatida Porlu and others.
 
"Earlier, Tulu month of Aati, was considered as a period of difficulties as farmers and others class will be jobless because of heavy rain. In those days, people used to store food for Aati month. They used to make various delicacies using leaves, vegetables and fruits that were available in plenty," Karnataka Tulu Sahitya Academy former president Vaman Nandavara told TOI.
 
It was the Tulu Sahitya Academy, which started Aati celebrations at its chavadi in 1994 when scholar BA Vivek Rai was at its helm. Later on, many organizations in the region followed the suit, said. Nandavara "As poverty and unemployment reduced gradually, the concept of Aati too is changed. Now, people dedicate a day in the month to commemorate the ancient times," he added.
 
Tulu litterateur Seetharam Kulal said that Aati upholds the significance of nature. "Earlier, people were completely aware of the food available in the nature and its medicinal values. All food prepared during Aati month have their own specialty and medicinal value," he said.
 
Of late, people started celebrating the month, the itterateur said. "Aati celebrations help younger generation understand the lives of older generations and taste Tuluva delicacies," he added.